Overview
Step into the world of true alpine adventure with this 6-day ascent of Mount Kenya’s North Face Standard Route, the legendary climb to Batian Peak (5,199m) — the mountain’s highest and most revered summit. Recognized as one of Africa’s finest technical routes, this expedition combines world-class rock climbing, high-altitude endurance, and jaw-dropping exposure in a setting of unmatched natural beauty.
The journey begins via the Sirimon Route, offering a gradual approach through montane forest, moorland, and alpine terrain to Shipton’s Camp (4,200m) — the base for your summit push. From here, the real challenge unfolds: a multi-pitch climb on Batian’s imposing north face, featuring sustained rock grades of IV–V, sections of mixed climbing, and breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks and valleys.
Climbers typically start before dawn, navigating solid granite walls, chimneys, and ledges en route to the summit — a spectacular perch high above the African plains. The descent is made via multiple abseils back to the lower slopes, followed by a scenic trek out through the Sirimon valley.
This climb is designed for experienced mountaineers comfortable with technical rock and alpine environments. It rewards skill and preparation with an experience that blends challenge, precision, and sheer exhilaration.
For those seeking the pinnacle of East African mountaineering, the North Face Standard Route stands as a true test of skill and spirit — a climb that every serious alpinist dreams of conquering.
Skills Required:
Lead climbing (5.10 trad/multi-pitch experience).
Glacier travel & ice climbing (WI2-3).
Gear:
Rock: Cams (0.3–3″), nuts, 60m rope.
Ice: Screws, hybrid crampons.
Bivvy: Lightweight portaledge or ledges.
Permits: KWS technical climbing permit + guide mandatory.
Why the North Face?
Classic Lines: One of Africa’s top 5 alpine climbs.
Solitude: Fewer climbers than Kilimanjaro’s ice routes.
Glaciers: Lewis Glacier adds technical variety.
Pro Tip: Train at Hell’s Gate (Kenya) or Table Mountain (SA) for crack climbing endurance.
Highlights
- Day 1: Nairobi → Sirimon Gate → Shipton’s Camp
- Day 2: Shipton’s → Kami Hut → North Face Base
- Day 3: North Face Ascent (Day 1 of Climbing)
- Day 4: Summit Push (Batian Peak) → Rappel to Shipton’s
- Day 5: Contingency/Weather Day
- Day 6: Shipton’s → Sirimon Gate → Nairobi
